Thursday, January 17, 2013

Matsutake Mushrooms with Joseph


Just like the first time we met him in a parking lot in Forks, today we randomly ran into Joseph in another parking lot – this time, in his stomping grounds of Gold Beach.  He invited us for dinner, the dinner he prepared for us the night before.  The one we didn’t show up for… hippies.  Thankfully, soup is always better the second day.  When we arrived at his trailer, which was parked next to Anna’s in a little community of travelers, we were almost immediately served porcini soup, made with 3 pounds of fresh porcini, which was followed by the most delicious morel pasta I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating.  It was loaded with thin slices of ham and more whipping cream than anyone deserves to eat in one sitting—not to mention all the love he put into it!  Joseph is such an amazing and beautiful man.  He really has very little, but gives so much, like so many others we’ve met on this journey.

The next day, Joseph took us on a little adventure into the forest.  He wanted to show us one of his secret matsutake patches.  For those of you don’t know much about mushroom pickers, this is a rare treat.  No one gives away their secret patches, especially matsutake given their market value.  Moreover, this guy is a professional.  His patches are the real deal.  The road was wrecked by clear-cutting, entire hillsides completely bare and soil was running off into the water below.  This wasn’t a good sign, and Joseph remarked about how he wasn’t sure whether or not his patch would even be there by next year at the rate he’d seen them cutting.  Once we arrived, we found the pickings to be only mediocre, although the hike was quite lovely.  We each gathered about a pound of matsis, as they’re called for short, a process that requires some digging into the top layer of duff on the forest floor.  I worry that, even without using rakes or other tools that go down into the topsoil like some of the professional pickers, matsutake patches get destroyed pretty easily.  Once the mushroom surfaces, it often cracks, leaving it less valuable than those found underground.  That said, the mycelium gets disrupted and torn up a bit from the digging, and the mushrooms never have the opportunity to sporelate.  Some might argue that this type of harvesting is completely sustainable, but Joseph says he’s seen fewer and fewer mushrooms in this spot over the years, and suggested that it could be due to over-harvesting. 

When we arrived home, Joseph whipped up a huge pot of roasted chicken with thinly sliced matsutake mushrooms for us, stuffing our bellies like a good papa does.  It felt so comforting to be cooked for and cared for as he did for us, like being home with mom and dad.  I’ve really grown to love this man, and his wonderful friend Anna.  Even Joe Joe, his maniac dog has a little spot in my heart.  

No comments:

Post a Comment